Friday, July 20, 2012

Dorothy, You're Not in Kansas Anymore


 
 The quilt is pretty (just in entrance area) but I don't think that this pattern comes from the Dakota people.


    Now for some photos of where we are staying, just to reassure family that it is as safe as I have been saying. This is Fort Totten, which really did used to be a fort to secure the area for white people. Then it became a boarding school for Indian kids who'd been taken from their families, often forcibly, and trained for assimilation. The Dakota were hunters and berry gatherers; the US government wanted them to be farmers. So at the boarding schools there were agricultural classes for the boys and home economics for the girls. The children were forbidden to speak their mother tongue. The fort has the old dormitories; 70 girls to a room. I get quite a dismal feeling from it. But just look at it...isn't it pretty? And to my kids: doesn't it remind you of the bungalow colonies we went to, with the green in the middle of all the buildings?
   Here is the front of the inn (to my parents: there are dead bolts on all the doors, and locks on the individual rooms).

   Now, for some North Dakota scenery, just to prove I really am here.You can't talk about Devil's Lake without pictures of the lake, so here are a few taken from the summit of Ski Jump Hill. The large rectangular building you see on the far side of the lake is the casino. In the foreground is part of the lake road with lots of trucks. Because of all the flooding here, there's an initiative to build up the roads which serve as levees. Devil's Lake has done this a couple of times, but the lake keeps flooding. This time around, the roads will be built 6 feet higher.


Driving through the reservation, there are lots of hills and ponds, some cattle, horses, and crops. There are towns within the reservation. We are at Fort Totten, and we drove through Tokio. Mostly every place is poor--boarded-up windows, trailer homes, unpaved roads, and free-roaming reservation dogs--and there is a sprinkling of better-looking homes, as well.


This is the Boecan Dakota Presbyterian Church; the Catholic Church out by Saint Michael's has stained glass windows and looks a lot handsomer.
   Some fun photos below: 
Amitha Sampath, my morning walking buddy (I am on the Amitha Sampath diet and exercise plan), and I on Ski Jump Hill.


Above, Marisa Oishi, co-investigator of our project, which has been going strong for 4 years, with many thanks to her. Amitha and Marisa are below.


Here's the car that got us up the dirt road, pocked not just with holes but with gullies. Thanks for the car, Lauren...we made sure no one took the kayak!


Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Day Three of our Intro to Public Health class. There are times I forget I'm not the student here; I'm sitting on my hands so I won't raise them to volunteer an answer. Monday started off with a prayer by Arnie, a mature student who deejays a daily afternoon radio show for the Nation. He thanked "Grandfather Creator" for bringing us all together so that we can all learn from each other as we walk together on this path of our lives. Amen!

A talk by Vern on Monday was a short history of the Dakota people, and sadly was basically a history of one treaty after the other broken by the white man, as well as discrimination including lacking the right to own land or make liquor purchases until 1953. The more positive parts of the talk were about the actual beliefs of the Dakota, like Elders -- due to their wisdom and experience -- being responsible for educating the young. (What do parents know?) Women were considered sacred because they undergo a "natural purification process." Not so men. They have to use the sweat lodge to get sacred. It couldn't help but remind me of the Jewish mikveh, where things are a little reversed (required for women, optional for men.) Same theme, different religions.

The last part of Vern's talk focused on the "dual identity" of the Indian. Although they lived on their own lands on the reservations, it was really held "in trust" by the Bureau of Indian Affairs. Until 1924, they weren't considered US citizens. Before that, many Indians served in the US Army. But if they died in the line of duty, their widows didn't get benefits because their husbands weren't citizens. Until 1953, they couldn't buy liquor. Today, Indians need to carry both a tribal ID card and a US ID card. 

Just about every conversation I've had with Native Americans includes talk of the split between tribal responsibilities and county/state responsibilities. They'll talk about when they use tribal health care vs having to go to an outside hospital, or tribal roads vs North Dakota roads. Even snow plowing means some roads are the responsibility of the reservation, and others are the responsibility of the county. Separate but equal...sound familiar?

Also on Monday and Tuesday, Dr. Ripp spoke on the "social determinants of health"--in a nutshell, wealth = health. He showed a couple of slides I remember from my Mt. Sinai class on the same topic. They are case studies that look straightforward on first reading, then get complicated when you examine them. "A 25-year-old Hispanic woman living in rural AZ is within walking distance of a community health clinic. Why might she be healthy? Why might she not?" The conversation was just as animated here at Cankdeska Cikana Comm. College as it was at Mt. Sinai in NYC. Is she here illegally? Is she healthy enough to walk without pain? Does she have kids, or someone to watch them while she's at the clinic? Does she work? So, is she healthy or not? It's a great way to break the ice in a course.

Lauren followed up with her truly captivating talk on justice in health care. As if the bar hadn't been high enough from Dr Ripp's lectures, she raised it up way higher. Thanks, Lauren! So we learned that race in biology means a difference species. Race among people is a social construct--we aren't from different species, since there's never been a case where people from two different "races" couldn't procreate. Magdalen summed it up beautifully: "So we're all the same race and we're different races." That cleared things up.

Amitha livened things up today by incorporating video into her talk on Global Health and the Burden of Disease. And Evan had a challenge with what has to be the toughest talk in our syllabus: Research Design & Ethics. I bet there aren't too many YouTube videos on research design! She set the stage quite nicely for my talk tomorrow on community-based participatory research, where researchers partner with community leaders to do studies that benefit the community and lead to social change. I'm anxious about giving the talk; it's my performance anxiety! I'll talk to the mirror tonight; that should help.

A non-class function last night included a dinner visit to Spirit Lake Ministries to hear a talk from an elder, Demus (short for Nicodemus).


On the ride back (in the Fun Car?) I confessed to having difficulty processing the whole experience. Missionaries I've met are among the nicest, sincerest people, but I'm just not comfortable with mission talk of bringing Christ to the People. So much evil has been done in the name of religion, I can't really embrace the idea of bringing anyone to anybody. Just live your life by example, and I'll reach my own conclusions. Surely this comes from an upbringing by Holocaust survivors who suffered terribly at the hands of people who said the Jews deserved the Holocaust because they killed Christ.


However, Demus expressed love equally for Native religion and for Catholicism, and focused on universal themes among all peoples.He told the group that the medicine circle, which has a cross in it, represented the four directions, plus up and down, and that the center was the heart. How could I not think of how we shake the lulav on Sukkot in exactly the same 6 directions? He also commented, "Everything in our house was Dakota first." How could I not think of how in our house growing up, everything was Jewish first? How else to transmit cultural identity without losing it over the generations?

Here's Demus:

The processing will go on and on.

A note to my sister Brook, the professional blogger: it's not easy being in the blogosphere! All day long I think about whether to include this event or that, this photo or that. Some Comments from My Readers would sure come in handy!


Monday, July 9, 2012

Monday, July 9, 2012

Flying from Minneapolis to Devil's Lake in a 19-seater (with five passengers), I flew over what looked like flat terrain dotted with a thousand lakes. This really is big sky country. Our medical school students picked up Amitha, a pediatrician, and me, and we rattled along the Devil's Lake road, which is in the process of being repaved.

The road requires repaving due to the serious flooding problems here. The lake isn't fed by rivers and streams. Rather, it is a basin created who knows how long ago by a glacier. Water flows down from the region--as far North as Canada, and from surrounding prairie--and then has no outlet. Since 1993, there have been floods. 2009 and 2011 were particularly wet years, and you can see the evidence in submerged trees and telephone poles. The county has to keep building up the roads and the levees to contain the lake and allow travel.

Flooding has robbed the Spirit Lake Nation of some territory. The hillier parts of the country that I saw around the water tower are spectacularly beautiful. It's rural and green.

The only native industry on the lake that I have seen is the Spirit Lake Casino, which provides some income to the Nation. The other industry I see here is fishing. There are huge fish in the great big lake, and it is known for walleye, a type of perch.


Other sights: bison and prairie dogs on Sully's Hill.




Here is the entrance to where we are staying at Fort Totten Inn, our "gated" community.


As for the class, we had our introductions today: eight students enrolled. Three are interested in nursing, one in hospital administration, and two just-graduated high school kids who just don't know what they want to do. Two are the completely silent type. I am hoping they all stick with the class and that the possibility of a health care career takes them by storm.